Mendoza, Argentina

After a great time in Cordoba and a safe overnight bus ride we pulled into Mendoza, Argentina for a two night stay. The city and surrounding countryside is ground zero for the Argentinean wine industry (especially Malbec red wines) and we were in town to sample some of its finest and tour the city. The landscape is relatively flat and dry, which bodes well for wine growing, but to the immediate west stand the snow-capped Andes. They present a wall of towering ridges in the 5,000 to 6,000 metre range and are very majestic.

Upon arrival we checked into the Bed for Wine Hostel which turned out to be a great place to stay for the 2 nights. The room was basic but there was a kitchen that we could use, a ping pong table, and a great courtyard with overhead vines to relax under. The bilingual hostel staff also helped us book a wine tour for the afternoon that we arrived which we were very thankful for.

The wine tour was fantastic and included visits to the modern Vistandes winery, a family-run winery called Cavas de Don Arturo, and the Pasari olive oil factory. The best part of the tours besides the wine and olive oil spreads was that as the only non-Spanish visitors (it appeared to be low-season for foreign tourists) we got private English tours at all three locations. With just the two of us we were able to ask as many questions as we liked and didn’t have to peer over the heads of thirty other visitors to see the equipment, etc. At the first winery we sampled a white Torrentes which was light and crisp, a red Cabermere which was very heavy and smoky, and a red Malbec which was heavy but fruity. At the second winery we sampled a fruity red Malbec, a Cabernet Sauvignon, a red Syrah (Shiraz), and a premium Malbec which was by far the best wine of the bunch. Unfortunately it was also a bit more expensive to buy so we opted to purchase the Syrah which was our second favourite and a nice light and smooth red.

The tours themselves were very interesting as we got to see the entire process and associated equipment used from the giant fermentation tanks to the oak barrels. Some of the interesting facts that we learned at both wineries are: no additives are added to the wines (including yeast which naturally settles on the grapes in the region); the Malbec grape was originally from France but considered a poor wine until the Argentinean’s and the ideal growing conditions around Mendoza made it into a world-class wine; the premium wines are aged in oak barrels for well over 9 months; and there are two types of oak barrels traditionally used by wineries. Depending on which type of barrel is used the wine picks up those flavours: French oak, which has hints of chocolate and banana; and American oak, which has a smoky flavour.

The Pasari olive oil tour was not what we had in mind when booking the wine tour but it turned out to be a welcomed addition. We love using olive oil to cook with back home but didn’t really know the process of how it was created or what an olive tree even looked like. We both assumed that green and black olives were two separate olive-types but in reality are the same only picked at different times during the season - the green earlier and hence the ripe taste, and the black at the end of the season with its softer taste. We sampled 5 different varieties of extra virgin olive oil and left convinced to only purchase extra virgin olive oil back home both for its wonderful taste and because it is completely free of any additives or chemicals unlike refined olive oil.

Our second day in Mendoza was very low key partially on account of our bodies desiring some rest but also because it was a Sunday and almost everything was closed in town except restaurants and supermarkets. It was very strange walking around town as Argentinean city streets can be very dangerous with constant traffic and four-way intersections with no stop signs or lights. We’ve come to the conclusion that whichever car speeds up faster with less regard for other cars or pedestrians gets the right of way. So without this cacophony of noise and danger we ambled along the leafy streets and even ventured onto the middle of the roads to snap a few photos.

Being well over a week since our last laundering in Peru we also took the opportunity to catch up on some basic chores. What should have been an easy procedure however became a travel through time as we attempted to wash and ring out or clothes by hand as all the laundry services were closed. For two hours we scrubbed the clothes clean in a small bathroom sink and rung them to remove as much water as we could. It was tough work but enjoyable in its simplicity and thriftiness. The most amazing part was the clothesline that we rigged up in the small hotel room from the window blinds to the overhead furnace duct with some rope brought from home. It worked out great except that we ran out of line and had to improvise by hanging the remainder on any sharp protrusions in the room like closet doors, windows, faucets, etc. The clothes were reasonably dry by the morning and we were happy enough with our struggles. To unwind from the work we cooked our own pasta dinner in the hostel kitchen and then challenged each other to a game of cards and ping pong. The winner shall remain anonymous.

 Our third day brought us to a great park on the edge of the city where we hiked over 10 kilometres through the green space and then to the top of a small hill capped by an impressive stone and bronze monument and views out to the Andes on one side and the city of Mendoza on the other. It was a pleasure to stroll all afternoon as the weather was 20 degrees Celsius with almost no humidity. By the time we returned to the centre of the city however we were sore and tired so we refreshed with some local Grido ice cream. One waffle cone had 2 scoops of Tiramisu while the other had a combination of chocolate and cookies and cream. The three dollar cones were both divine and a great way to end and celebrate our time in Mendoza.