Ilha Grande, Brazil

Ilha Grande is the third largest island in Brazil and situated about 4-1/2 hours south of Rio de Janeiro. It was also our home base for 4 nights as we sought out its tropical beaches and sun for some much need R & R. The decision to visit this particular island was made easy by its charming pedestrian-only village and white-sand beaches only a short ferry ride away. To get to this there we first boarded a bus in Rio de Janeiro and travelled 3 hours south along scenic winding roads with mountains to our right and the ocean to our left. It was a beautiful drive through Brazil’s Green Coast and a refreshing change of pace and scenery from the density and development of Rio and its suburbs and slums. Arriving in the port town of Angra dos Reis we then made our way to a very smelly maritime terminal where we caught a large ferry to the village of Abraao on Ilha Grande. It was a pleasant crossing and during the 1-1/2 hours on the open water we caught up on reading and enjoyed the views out to sea.

In Abraao we disembarked amongst a crush of porters who rushed onto the ferry to unload all the goods being brought onto the island (food, beer, and even fridges) and an equal number of foreigners and backpackers. Everyone had a laid back island attitude and we felt safe as we searched out our hotel for the first two nights. Unfortunately it was hidden from the main street and we walked passed it twice before realizing our mistake. When we finally discovered it we were rather disappointed. The online photos of the swimming pool and amenities looked nothing like the real thing and were in such a sad state that we didn’t even venture near them. Fortunately the room was nice and with a stinging hot shower we no longer felt like grimy travelers.

The next morning we jumped into our bathing suits (for the first time in South America) and booked a seat on a local ferry that brings tourists to the island’s main beaches on the opposite side of the island. There are hiking trails through the dense tropical jungle of the island to reach these same beaches but at 3-hours in length one way we opted for the easier route. It was a good and bad decision. The one hour ferry ride gave us ample time on the beach but was extremely frightening. The boats are converted fishing vessels outfitted to transport 50 or so people from the village of Abraao to a smaller port farther down the coast. For most of the voyage the captain hugs the beautiful shoreline but at the midpoint they must pass around an exposed point of land. The wind at this location switches direction and intensity, and the previous calm sea becomes a tumult of waves and 6 foot swells hitting the side of the boat. Some of the waves breached the boat as it was tossed side to side. We were smart and grabbed lifejackets but for most of the passengers they thought it was just a wild ride. It was extremely unnerving for both of us and we happily disembarked and headed for the safety of land.

The beach that was waiting for us at the end of the ferry pier and a short hike through tropical jungle and creaking 40 foot bamboo shoots was Lopes Mendes: the second most beautiful beach in Brazil and one of the top ten in the world. We don’t know who voted this but we had to agree. It was a stunning crest of white sand and turquoise waters surrounded by palm trees and mountains. There were gentle waves crashing over a smooth sandy bottom and absolutely no development or buildings to be seen. It was beautiful and we immediately found a spot for the afternoon to relax. The only distraction was that the water and waves looked so inviting that after only an hour of sun tanning we were both in the water splashing against the surf and trying to ride the crests into shore. It was a blast and some of the most fun we’ve had on the trip. While still out in the water we also rented a surfboard for an hour and tried our best to ride a wave. It was extremely difficult to stand atop the short surfboard but fun and while Carolyn caught most of her waves on account of previous surfing experience in Australia, it was mostly a lot of failed attempts and saltwater splashing for Tom.

After spending the afternoon at the beach we then returned by topsy-turvy ferry to Abraao where we spent the evening exploring the car-free town and its many shops. We discovered a great buffet-style restaurant and enjoyed the variety of foods at hand. Of interest: the buffet was priced based on the weight of the food on your plate. Fortunately we didn’t overindulge and take more than we needed but can only imagine others getting a hefty bill as all the food looked extremely tasty.

The next day we checked out of our disappointing hotel and moved a block down the street to another hotel. Originally we planned on spending all 4 nights in the same place but with it being a weekend it was all booked up. So courtesy of booking.com we found another place that turned out to be 100 times better than the first and a real gem with sea views from our room and a immaculate tranquil garden with countless varieties of plants and hanging flowers at the front of the property. The owner even operated a creperie, where we enjoyed two dinner crepes and one desert crepe on the last night of our island visit.

That same afternoon we once again headed for the Lopes Mendes beach and enjoyed another afternoon of sun, sand and water. Unfortunately the return ferry was another nail-bitter as the winds picked up and tossed us from side to side. It was actually so bad that we had to skirt around the mast of a ship the same size as ours that had sunk within the time we spent at the beach. The reason we knew this is that we passed an idle boat waving for help on our way to the beach at 12:00 and when we passed by the same spot 5 hours later only the mast was visible. We gripped the side rails of the boat and prayed that we would make it back to land in one piece.

Fortunately we arrived safely and celebrated by downing two caipirinha’s each. The caipirinha is Brazil’s national drink and a sweet concoction of cachaca (sugarcane rum), squeezed limes and sugar sipped with a straw. It also packs a hefty 40% plus alcohol content and after two full glasses each we were hammered. We don’t remember much from the rest of that evening. 

Our final full day on the island was a day of rest and involved not much besides lounging around the hotel reading and writing. We also had heavy hangovers from our night of drinking, but more than that, it was a Sunday. Based on all the bad experiences we’ve had on Sundays throughout the trip we didn’t want to push our luck any further, especially having seen a sunken ship the day before. So we willed the day away and planned for our final destination in Brazil and of the trip:  the preserved colonial village of Paraty that awaited us 2-hours to the south by bus.

P.S. We finally decided to shave off Tom’s beard - there was no objection from either one of us. The pale white skin under the unruly mane had not seen any sun for 7 weeks and we figured there would probably be a noticeable tan line upon returning home unless it saw some light for the last few days of the trip. We'll let the photos speak for themselves. J