Montevideo, Uruguay

After a rather disappointing time in Buenos Aires, Argentina we took a 3-hour ferry and then 3-hour bus ride to Montevideo, the capital city of Uruguay. We had high expectations for our visit to the city and the small country, mostly on account of reading about Uruguay in our Lonely Planet Guidebook. Boy did they drop the ball on this one. The guidebook painted a very different picture than the one we experienced and needless to say we were quite happy to get out of Montevideo after 3 days of travel.

Our visit started out great aboard the ferry where we were treated to a mid-cruise tango show by two professional dancers. It was a treat to watch them twist and turn all the while they kept a serious and passionate gaze into each other’s eyes. Disembarking in Colonia, Uruguay we then boarded a very comfortable bus to Montevideo and traveled through flat pampa landscapes with periodic views out to the water. Arriving in Montevideo under heavy grey skies we then took a taxi to Live MVD Hostel, which would be our home base for the next two nights and turn out to be the best spot we have stayed in thus far. We have booked a lot of our hostels/hotel rooms online through www.booking.com and have been very happy with the selection of rooms and discounted rates.  What caught our eye for this particular hostel were the perfect 10.0 reviews it had received from all of its visitors. The online reviews didn’t lie as this quaint homey hostel run by two helpful and friendly girls was a perfect 10. We relaxed in the evening on their comfy couch while watching the Olympics and drinking Uruguayan “Pilsner” beer (which is fantastic) and awoke to breakfast served beside a warm fire. It felt as close to a home away from home as one could get.

On our first full day in the city we went and visited an open-air Sunday market. There was a strange assortment of vendors selling everything from food and antiques, to pirated movies and pets. There were also a lot of people strolling through the market which unfortunately led to the first of our negative experiences in the city. Just as we were walking past a stall where a man was trying to scam people to guess which of the three upside down cups had a ball below it, a man brushed up against Carolyn’s right side and tried to pickpocket her. He unzipped her jacket pocket and was grabbing her camera string when she turned to see what was going on and caught him in the act. He pulled out his hand immediately and sped away into the crowd as if nothing had happened. We quickly turned in the opposite direction and got out of the congested market safely but nonetheless feeling quite vulnerable as foreign tourists.

Freed of this area we headed for the waterfront which was safer and had more vantage points to see any would-be thieves. It was a nice walk along the coast as the grey sky finally lifted and the sun made its first appearance in four days. We stopped to try out some outdoor fitness equipment and slowly made our way towards the old part of Montevideo a couple of kilometres away.

The old city was a curious blend of beautiful old eclectic buildings decorated with sculptures and wrought iron balconies and modern box-like skyscrapers covered in air conditioners. There was graffiti over everything at street level but at least looking up was a treat so long as you didn’t step in one of the countless piles of dog droppings on the sidewalk. Ambling along a very deserted pedestrian street we unfortunately witnessed the second incident of the day. We had just passed a group of three girls and commented that they looked like tourists (which we haven’t seen much of since Bolivia) when we heard a scream a block later and looked back to see two men robbing one of the girls of her purse and fleeing. Two locals went running after the men but it was probably too late as everything was closed up as it was a Sunday afternoon and there was no one around including police. Having witnessed this second brazen attack of the day we quickly turned around and headed back to the open waterfront where we high-tailed it back to the hostel safely.

The fact that these two incidents occurred on the same day really left a bad impression of the city. We no longer felt safe walking its streets and while the hostel was great and the hostess extremely nice we couldn’t wait to get out of town. After a quick detour to the city centre the next morning to pick up a Uruguayan souvenir we left via bus to the beach town of Punta del Este, Uruguay about two hours east up the coast.

P.S. Family at home: please don’t worry as we are fine and weren’t hurt or robbed of any of our belongings. These events happened 6 days ago and while we are now in Brazil nothing of this sort has happened since. We intend to avoid congested open-air markets for the remainder of the trip and if streets are deserted on Sundays, we will do as the locals do and take a day of rest at our hostel or make it a long distance travel day. Tom will also keep his beard for the remainder of the trip as it makes him look tougher to would-be thieves even though he desperately wants to shave it off.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Buenos Aires is the capital city of Argentina and home to close to 13 million people. It is a large city and one often characterized as the Paris of South America but with a Latino heart. It is a city of glamour and style bustling with tall skyscrapers and the world’s widest street at 20 lanes. But it also has a dark and gritty core. It is a city of contrasts and unfortunately one that we were all too happy to leave after a brief 2 days in the city.

Arriving 3 hours late but at least safely by plane from Santiago under heavy rain clouds we made our way into the city centre by shared taxi. We had met a very friendly family of 5 from Tasmania, Australia while disembarking the plane and they offered to split a cab into Buenos Aires. We happily agreed and had a great ride as we shared travel tips and stories from home. Checking into our pre-booked hotel we faced one of the not-too-pleasant sides of being foreign travelers. Our room was reserved at $92 US for two nights stay or $421 Argentinean pesos at the current exchange rate of 4.58%. The staff said that if we paid in US dollars than the total would be $92 but if we paid in pesos it would be at their 5.8% exchange rate; clearly contradicting our reservation which stated that the rate was to be converted at the official daily exchange. There was no way we were paying what amounted to an extra $25 US for the two nights so we went hunting for an ATM that dispensed US dollars. It was a miserable hour spent searching in vain that somewhat appropriately finished with a 3-block sprint under torrential rain and thunder overhead.

The next morning and still with no US dollars in hand we marched up to the front desk and demanded that we pay in pesos at the 4.58% rate. They hummed and hawed but eventually balked and agreed; our threats to write negative reviews about the hotel on the reservation website surely helped. Buoyed by our victory we set off on foot to explore the city for the day under grey skies but at least with no rain at the time – that would unfortunately come later. After learning to dance the tango from some cool sidewalk art we stopped at the famous Recoleta cemetery in Buenos Aires, the resting place of some of Argentina’s most famous citizens including Eva “Evita” Peron. It was a sombre gray landscape of above-ground tombs and mausoleums but extremely interesting both historically and architecturally. Each tomb was a unique grand monument to the deceased person or family and often with statues and marble finishes. Unfortunately many of the tombs had been broken into over the years, possibly by grave robbers, and they were left in a sad state of disrepair.

After our walk through the cemetery we got absolutely soaked by a sudden downpour of rain. Fortunately it didn’t last long and we had rain jackets on but we got chilled very quickly. To combat the cold we sat in a warm travel agent’s office where we booked our ferry and bus tickets for the next morning to Montevideo, Uruguay, and then settled in for a 2-hour lunch and wi-fi internet session at a great cafe overlooking the world’s widest street. Sufficiently dried and warmed we then toured the cities busy pedestrian avenues looking for Argentinean souvenirs and then Plaza Mayo, which is anchored by the presidential “Pink” House (just like Washington’s White House but actually illuminated in fluorescent pink and blue lights).

Seeing the city cleansed by the day’s heavy rain and bathed in night time accent lighting it was very beautiful as we finished the evening strolling hand-in-hand. If only our experiences with the hotel staff and ATM machines had gone better, or the people and weather of Buenos Aires had been more pleasant, then we might have enjoyed our visit more. Regardless we were happy to have visited the city and equally happy to be continuing on our way to Uruguay the next day.

Chile Travel Tips

With our travels through Chile now behind us we thought it would be fun to share some tips we learned along the way.

Tip #1:

“When traveling make sure that you carry extra credit cards, debit cards, and American dollars just in case the cards get blocked and you can’t take out any money.” (Orsono)

Tip #2:

“If you show a stray dog any type of affection (including eye contact) be prepared for it to follow you for a part of the day. Once one follows also be prepared for all his stray friends to join in as well.” (Pucon and the rest of South America)

Tip #3:

“Lonely Planet is an excellent travel resource.” (all of South America)

Tip #4:

“Eating at a restaurant with a set lunch-time menu is the way to go – you each get a three course meal and glass of wine for $10 US.” (Pucon)

Tip #5:

“When hiking for 7 hours make sure to bring a banana to help combat lactic acid build-up in the legs.” (Volcan Villarrica)

Tip #6:

“Crampons are a necessity when climbing a steeply sloped icy volcano/glacier.” (Volcan Villarrica)

Tip #7:

“You may want to train or even stretch prior to climbing a massive volcano in the middle of winter.” (Volcan Villarrica)

Tip #8:

“When ordering 2 scoops of gelato ice cream ask to see the scoop size first as it may be a lot larger than expected.” (Santiago)

Tip #9:

“When you can’t find the museum that you are looking for ask 5 people in your best Spanish until you find it (even if it is closed for renovation).” (Santiago)

Tip #10:

“Visit Chile as the people are amazing and the landscape is beautiful.” (Chile)

Algarrobo, Chile

As a break from the frenzied pace of travel we decided to take a day trip to the Pacific coast and the resort town of Aglarrobo. It is also home to the world’s largest outdoor pool stretching over a kilometre in length, which made the town equally interesting to visit. Only 1 1/2 hours from Santiago by bus the trip was enjoyable as we passed through Chilean vineyards and mountainous terrain. At two points along the way we entered the longest mountain tunnels that we have ever seen, which was a nice change from the countless switchback roads that we have encountered on the trip so far.

In Algarrobo we immediately headed downhill to the ocean and sandy beach. The tide was out leaving large boulders exposed where the pelicans preened themselves while the beach was littered with shells and beach glass amongst the soft white sand. We were joined by a group of friendly stray dogs along the way until they decided to chase after an unassuming flock of pigeons. After hiking Volcan Villarrica in sub-zero temperatures and under a blanket of snow and ice it was refreshing to be in the sand and surf basking in the sun. We walked the length of the beach until we reached the San Alfonso del Mar resort and the world’s largest pool a couple of kilometres away.

When we first read about the world’s largest pool online before leaving for South America it sounded very interesting and excitedly we packed our bathing suits and towels for the day trip. Our muscles were still extremely sore from the volcano hike and the idea of a soothing dip into one of their outdoor hot tubs sounded too good to be true. Unfortunately it was too good to be true. To our surprise the world’s largest outdoor pool and other attractions were part of an exclusive gated resort community only accessible to those who owned units in one of the dozen large ship-like multi-storey buildings. Even worse, no visitors were permitted on the premises and photos of the pool were strictly forbidden. Somewhat dismayed we convinced a security guard and administration staffer to let us walk the grounds for a few minutes where we discreetly snapped a few photos when no one was looking.

The pool was indeed the world’s largest as it stretched the length of the kilometre long beach and could even accommodate sailing activities. After talking with administration and walking the beach it became obvious that the strong rip tide and large waves necessitated the separate swimming area for the resort.  It was definitely interesting to see but we left somewhat dismayed by the resorts strict security policies and the fact that this massive seawater pool didn’t have a single swimmer in its waters when we visited nor did it even offer day passes to the curious; talk about a missed opportunity. Regardless of the circumstances however, we really enjoyed our day in Algarrobo strolling hand-in-hand along the beach as the waves crashed along the shoreline. It was a beautiful scene and a welcomed break from the winter-like conditions we have been encountering for the last few weeks. All that was missing was some of Ontario’s record heat. J

Santiago, Chile

Santiago, Chile is the capital city of Chile and with 5,000,000 people it is a dense and vibrant city tucked between the Pacific Ocean and Andes Mountains. After our trials and tribulations with Volcan Villarrica in Southern Chile it was our home base for three days of travel. While we were incredibly sore (especially in the thigh muscles) for our entire duration in the city we nonetheless really enjoyed our time there. The citizens of Chile and Santiago are the friendliest and most gracious people we have met in South America and the country remains our favourite destination out of the 4 countries visited thus far on the trip.

Arriving via overnight bus in Santiago we immediately headed for the very affordable subway and were greeted by thousands of like-minded commuters. It was the middle of morning rush hour and hopefully our experiences on the subway train will never be encountered again. We each had our heavy backpacks on and were compressed like sardines in a tin can for about 15 minutes as we traveled across the city. Neither of us could move an inch and when it came time to exit, we almost missed getting off the subway due to the sheer volume of people trying to get on at our stop. Security guards were actually posted at each train door to help stem the flood of people and allow those trying to get off the opportunity to do so. To put the crowded trains into perspective, there were people whose noses were millimetres away from the opening and closing doors. We would have liked to include a photo of this craziness but neither one of us could reach into our pockets; let alone raise our hands to photograph the sea of people.

Freed of the subway we then hailed a taxi for what should have been a routine drop-off at our pre-booked B & B Hostel in the Provendicia district. The driver assured us that he knew our desired location but after 30 minutes of driving up and down blocks looking for the street, radioing head office and even getting out of the cab to ask pedestrians, we’re pretty sure he just wanted the commission. Fortunately he would stop the metre during his Q & A sessions, and once he finally found our hostel we were only out 1 or 2 dollars. The B & B Hostel was nice with large rooms and private bath, and the most quirky and nicest host we have met thus far. She made us feel at home, showed us how to use the propane heaters, and served a great breakfast in the morning of eggs, ham and cheese, fruit, yogurt and tea/coffee. 

After getting settled into the hostel we spent our first day in the city unwinding, resting our sore muscles, getting our laundry done (not by hand this time), and watching the Olympics. We have been following the televised coverage from our hostels in the evenings but it has been a different experience for us as the coverage is in Spanish and focuses almost exclusively on South American athletes. We’re able to see how the Canadians are doing via the internet but have only seen one Canadian on TV so far. That evening we went exploring (or rather hobbling on our sore legs) and discovered a great park and fountain, bustling streets and finished the night with some excellent gelato ice cream.

On our second day in Santiago we boarded a bus and took a day trip to the Pacific coast about 1-1/2 hours west and the city of Algarrobo. It is the home of the world’s largest outdoor pool and sandy beaches, and our experiences there will follow in a separate blog post.

On day three we further explored Santiago by foot, concentrating on the city centre and its plazas and parks. Our walk was very enjoyable as we strolled through a long linear park populated by unique trees and numerous kissing couples. The main plaza was surrounded by neo-classical buildings and a Catholic Church, which was very dark but beautiful inside. After visiting a modern art museum we capped the day off with dinner at a cool restaurant where we enjoyed two very large and tasty stir-fry dishes.

The next morning we awoke early at 5:00am to catch a 10:00am plane ride to Buenos Aires, Argentina. Everything went smoothly getting to the airport on time and clearing customs but unfortunately the plane was delayed 3 hours because of inclement weather in Argentina. To keep amused we played cards, watched Olympic Games coverage, and vowed to never eat at an airport again – they are ridiculously overpriced.

Volcan Villarrica, Chile

Towering 2,800 metres above sea level and dominating the Pucon landscape, Volcan Villarrica is one of the most active volcanoes in southern Chile. It last erupted in 1971 destroying numerous small communities and a local ski resort at the base of the volcano. Everything has since rebuilt (including the ski resort but on a different side of the volcano) and the area is now a tourist mecca for adventurous climbers and the curious. It has remained relatively stable for the last few decades except for small lava bursts and sulphuric smoke that still emit from the volcano core. It the summer it is largely snow-free while in the winter it is covered in snow and ice with downhill skiers and toboggans at the base and foolhardy climbers at the summit. We were part of the latter.

Having sized all our gear the previous day we awoke early and made our way to the Aquaventura building in Pucon to get dressed in the winter clothing and catch a minibus to the base of the volcano about 20km outside the city centre. We were both anxious about the climb ahead as the volcano was still hidden by the black morning skies but excited. Piled tightly into the small min-bus with 4 other climbers and 2 backcountry skiers we made our way along potholed roads covered in frost to the ski base lodge. There we caught a chairlift to the main lodge farther up the hill where we officially began the 1600m ascent to the top of the volcano.

After a rather brief introduction to ascending the volcano we began climbing under bright blue skies and sub-zero temperatures. Our group consisted of 8 people, which included our two Chilean guides and a really friendly family of 4 from France. The guides carried radios that constantly provided reports about the volcano and the weather conditions at the summit. Everything was favourable so we started up a small incline using a closed ski slope as our trail. Unfortunately the previous day’s storm had battered the volcano and left ice chunks everywhere. The snow was covered by a sheet of round ice pellets and we immediately had to put on our crampons (basically a slipper for your boot but covered in large metal spikes that dig into and grab icy surfaces). They worked extremely well and the pace increased as we continued up the steeper slope.

Unfortunately, breaks between climbing were few and far between but after a couple of hours we had gained considerable height and stood higher than most of the surrounding mountains. We were both tired but the adrenaline masked the energy spent in climbing up the icy surfaces. The view was absolutely incredible from the volcano as it looked over lakes and mountains stretching off to the horizon. Other volcanoes were also visible in the distance as was the city of Pucon where we started the day. It was like our visit to Cerra Campanario in Bariloche only magnified by the distance we could see and the energy expended in reaching the spot.

As we gained in elevation we hiked with one trekking pole on our low side and an ice axe on the high side. This was for safety reasons because if we fell and started to slide the axe would hold us in place after picking it forcefully into the ice. Fortunately no one in our group ever had to use the ice axe for this purpose and it basically acted as another trekking pole. We kept the crampons on throughout the hike and the winter gear supplied by the tour company kept us warm (albeit a bit too warm). Carolyn’s legs unfortunately built-up lactic acid from the strain on her thigh muscles which made the latter part of the climb very difficult for her as the slope near the summit was around 45 degrees. To make it easier one of the guides stayed with us and moved at a slower pace, zigzagging across the slope to make the pitch shallower. It worked and we neared the summit with the remainder of our group almost 5 hours after starting the climb.

The top of the volcano was a strange landscape of sulphuric gas that smelled of rotten eggs and strong winds due to the elevation and exposed location. The core of the volcano was a massive pit that was partially obscured by the gas and a fear of getting too close to the edge for a good view lest one slip and fall in. We stayed on the summit for about 15 minutes to rest and take pictures and then began our 2-1/2 hour descent.

All along the guides had warned us that going down would be a lot more difficult than ascending but we both disagreed. With the crampons we were able to grasp the ice and snow very easily and descending the volcano actually turned out much better than expected. If only we weren’t so tired from going up we could have breezed down the volcano with ease. By the time we reached the bottom over 7 hours from when we began we were both absolutely spent of energy and incredibly sore from the constant climbing and tight boots. The chairlift ride to the base lodge was a welcomed relief for our legs all though we were quite cold from the litres of sweat drenching our clothing and slowly chilling.

Arriving back in Pucon via min-bus we celebrated with the team over beers and then returned to our hostel where the hostess had offered us a place to shower and relax before our overnight bus ride to Santiago. It was the nicest gesture and we loved the reasonably hot sting of the shower on our sore bodies and the comfort of warm and clean clothing.

Upon reflection, the volcano hike was not easy. It put our bodies through an extreme fatigue that we probably should have warmed up beforehand with a smaller hike or at least stretched properly that morning. It was also scary at some points not because it was a volcano but rather the icy conditions and steep slope. The guides were helpful as we climbed but set too quick a pace and their description of the hike and what to expect was too brief. At some points we felt like turning around but we preserved and are very proud of accomplishing this feat together. It brought us closer and it is something that we will always remember together.

Pucon, Chile

To say that our first day in Chile went smoothly would be to distort the facts. It was a tough day of travel from Villa La Angostura, Argentina to Orsono, Chile, not because of the bus ride but rather bureaucracy and banks. We started the day early in Argentina under black skies and slowly climbed by bus to the border post between the two countries high in the Andes. Snow quickly made an appearance due to the elevation and thick clouds obscured most of the view. At the Argentinean border we had to scramble to fill out tourist information cards that should have been given to us when entering the country from Bolivia. Fortunately, the border agent was nice and let us fill out an extra form on the spot; had he not been so welcoming it would’ve been a trip to the nearest police station to fill out a form there at our own expense and time.

At the Chilean border we once again had to scramble to fill out a customs declaration form that should have been given to us when we left Villa La Angostura. Fortunately, the second agent was also very nice and helped us (this would be a wonderful recurring theme for the day). While we were in the border station the passenger bags were unloaded from the bus and searched by dogs for contraband drugs and fruit. Of course as we exited the small customs room both of our bags were sitting out while all the other bags had been put back in the stow-away. So under the watchful scrutiny of two guards we emptied out our bags to show them that there was nothing illegal hidden and that the only fruit that was being transported was the smell of peach juice from the unfortunate spill we had on the way to Machu Picchu two weeks earlier.

Finally in Chile we made our way through beautiful mountain and lake country before passing through largely agricultural areas. Arriving in Orsono we quickly booked our next bus ticket to Pucon for 4 hours time and decided to use the afternoon at hand to first get some food and money, and then book a hotel for Pucon that night. What should’ve been a straightforward transaction to get money out of an ATM however became a cross-city hunt for a machine that our cards would work in. We tried a total of 4 banks, had a very nice Chilean girl actually walk us to a bank that we couldn’t find, and then had to call Visa from a strange call centre when they put a hold on both of our cards. Our assumption is that the different machines used and number of transactions declined made it look suspicious to Visa and hence the holds. The problem is that we didn’t know this until later so we just kept trying more machines which made it worse. Fortunately, we had a separate debit card with us that finally prevailed. Having gone through the trouble we would recommend the following tips to other travelers: 1. Let Visa know that you’ll be out of the country (which we did); 2. Carry both a Visa and Interac debit card (which we did); and 3. Carry an extra stash of American money (which we did but had unfortunately mostly used up) to convert at a local currency exchange if the cards fail or have a hold placed on them unknowingly.

Cash in hand (less close to $40 dollars from the combination of Canadian and foreign ATM service charges, and then a 20 minute call to Visa), some food in our bellies, and a room tentatively reserved at a hostel we made our way to Pucon, a town about 4 hours north of Orsono. Arriving in the dark we were greeted by Victor, the owner of the hostel who escorted us to his property. This gesture was very much appreciated as we didn’t know if our email reservation had even been received or accepted. Unfortunately, we thought the man approaching us in the dark was trying to scam us for a hostel or taxi, as we have encountered these types of individuals every time we’ve arrived in another town or city. We waved Victor away not realizing that he was there to meet us and had been waiting for 45 minutes (whoops). We felt pretty bad.

The hostel itself was perfect with the most generous and nice hosts that we have met thus far. Victor and his wife immediately made us feel at home and helped erase all the troubles encountered during the long and difficult day. After a hot shower we set off for a late meal of empanadas (somewhat like a calzone but with different flavours – ours had Roquefort cheese, chicken, black olives and spinach) and South American beer. It was delicious.

The next day – our first of two in the town of 16,000 – was spent at leisure exploring the quaint town. It is situated on a lake with a black volcanic sand beach and ringed by mountains and volcanoes. We enjoyed afternoon tea and coffee and browsed through the mostly deserted shops liming the main avenue in town. The weather was inclement with rain but it was better that it fell then, as day two brought the real reason for our visit to Pucon. Towering over the landscape is Volcan Villarrica at 2,800 metres above sea level and one of the most active volcanoes in Chile. It is perfectly cone-shaped and capped with snow and periodic billowing smoke from its crater. It is also climbable for the average hiker with proper equipment and guides, and we intended to try summiting the volcano. After doing some research we chose Aquaventura and they walked us through the climb, the safety requirements, type of gear to be worn and used, and what to bring for the next day. They provided full winter wear including jacket, snow pants, gloves, boots, crampons, ice axe, trekking poles, helmet, sunglasses and backpack, and two guides for every 6 climbers. We felt comfortable both in the gear and with the company, and left nervous but excited about the climb.

After grocery shopping we made ourselves a home-made carbohydrate-heavy pasta dinner in the hostel kitchen and then lunches and snacks for the next day. It was a full day of activity in preparation for the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity and the only thing missing was a view of the volcano as the clouds obscured it all day. It felt strange knowing that it was lurking in the distance and we would be ascending it tomorrow.

To be continued ....

P.S. The hike happened three days ago and we are still alive and well J